I'm such an American. I'm not bragging about it, you understand, that's just how I am. It never occurred to me that out here on this world wide web people from all over the world (hopefully) would see my patterns and want to use them. It never occurred to me that I needed to specify that the needle sizes my patterns suggest are, of course, US sizes. I apologize. Any patterns I post in the future will include metric sizes, as well. You can teach this old dog new tricks.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Spa Day Facecloth
Every day can feel like a day at the spa when you start your morning with this textured hand-knit cotton facecloth.
Materials:
120 yards DK weight cotton yarn – the better quality yarn you use, the more deluxe your facecloth will be. Rowan Purelife Organic Cotton is heavenly in this pattern.
size 6 needles
2 stitch markers
tapestry needle
Directions:
Cast on 53 stitches.
Work 3 rows in seed stitch.
Row 1: (right side) Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, pm, k to last 3 stitches, pm, work last 3 stitches in seed stitch.
Row 2: Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, sm, p to last 3 stitches, sm, seed stitch.
Row 3: Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, sm, p2, k1 to last 3 stitches, sm, seed stitch.
Row 4: Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, sm, k2, p1 to last 3 stitches, sm, seed stitch.
Repeat rows 1-4 17 times.
Repeat rows 1 & 2.
Work 3 rows in seed stitch.
Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in ends.
(If you want to use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, use size 7 needles, cast on 44 stitches, and knit 14 repeats.)
Copyright 2010 by Anne Mancine
Materials:
120 yards DK weight cotton yarn – the better quality yarn you use, the more deluxe your facecloth will be. Rowan Purelife Organic Cotton is heavenly in this pattern.
size 6 needles
2 stitch markers
tapestry needle
Directions:
Cast on 53 stitches.
Work 3 rows in seed stitch.
Row 1: (right side) Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, pm, k to last 3 stitches, pm, work last 3 stitches in seed stitch.
Row 2: Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, sm, p to last 3 stitches, sm, seed stitch.
Row 3: Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, sm, p2, k1 to last 3 stitches, sm, seed stitch.
Row 4: Work first 3 stitches in seed stitch, sm, k2, p1 to last 3 stitches, sm, seed stitch.
Repeat rows 1-4 17 times.
Repeat rows 1 & 2.
Work 3 rows in seed stitch.
Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in ends.
(If you want to use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, use size 7 needles, cast on 44 stitches, and knit 14 repeats.)
Copyright 2010 by Anne Mancine
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Funky Pumpkins
When I worked at a yarn shop, the owner asked us all to design pumpkins for our Halloween window display, so technically, this is the first pattern I ever wrote. I have tried to spruce it up, but I fear it still reads like a first pattern.
The more different types of yarn you use, the more fun and “funky” your pumpkin will be. This is the perfect place to use that out-dated novelty yarn that’s been hiding at the bottom of your stash. Why not?
MATERIALS: About 130 to 150 yards each of several yarns of your choice (predominantly wool for felted pumpkin)
Yarn for stem
Size 13 16” circular needles
Size 13 dpns
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Plastic grocery bags
Holding all yarns together, and with the circular needles, cast on 40 stitches, place marker, and join, being careful not to twist the sts. For the first 3 rounds, k4, p1 eight times. (For larger seams between pumpkin sections, k3, p2 instead.)
Round 4: Inc 1 stitch in every k section for an increase of 8 sts. You should now have 48 sts. per round. Knit in pattern for 10 rounds.
Round 14: Inc 1 stitch in every k section. You should now have 56 sts. per round. Knit in pattern for 15 rounds.*
Round 29: Dec 1 stitch in every k section. Knit 4 rounds and dec again. You should be back to your original 40 stitches. Knit 4 rounds and dec again.
If pumpkin is not to be felted, bind off. Use yarn tail to thread through and cinch opening. Set aside. Using dpns, cast on 9 stitches and make I-cord stem for pumpkin. Bind off when stem is the length you desire. When weaving in the end, try to make the edge look like a diagonal “cut”. Sew pumpkin stem over small opening in pumpkin, leaving a 12” tail. This tail should then be drawn taut and sewn to the bottom edge of the pumpkin, creating the somewhat squashed shape of the pumpkin. Fill pumpkin with crumpled plastic grocery bags. Take the tail left from casting on and sew around large opening, pulling it tight to close opening. You may want to wrap yarn around seams between the pumpkin sections and tie it off at the bottom to give your pumpkin more shape.
The pumpkin to be felted should be knit closed as much as possible, as you will not be able to tighten it after felting. To this end, keep decreasing one stitch every 4 rows until opening is quite narrow. You may have to switch to dpns to accomplish this. Keep the opening large enough, however, that you can get your hand inside it to attach the stem. Bind off. The pumpkin should appear long and narrow.
Follow instruction listed above for making and attaching pumpkin stem. Felt pumpkin. As pumpkin is drying, put a plastic grocery bag inside it and fill with crumpled newspaper so that it will hold the desired shape. Use thick yarn or twine to wrap pumpkin seams while it is drying to make them more pronounced. When pumpkin is thoroughly dry, cut twine, remove bag full of newspaper and stuff with grocery bags.
*For felted pumpkin, knit this section for 20 rounds, as felting will shrink your pumpkin more lengthwise than through the width.
Copyright 2008 by Anne Mancine
The more different types of yarn you use, the more fun and “funky” your pumpkin will be. This is the perfect place to use that out-dated novelty yarn that’s been hiding at the bottom of your stash. Why not?
MATERIALS: About 130 to 150 yards each of several yarns of your choice (predominantly wool for felted pumpkin)
Yarn for stem
Size 13 16” circular needles
Size 13 dpns
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Plastic grocery bags
Holding all yarns together, and with the circular needles, cast on 40 stitches, place marker, and join, being careful not to twist the sts. For the first 3 rounds, k4, p1 eight times. (For larger seams between pumpkin sections, k3, p2 instead.)
Round 4: Inc 1 stitch in every k section for an increase of 8 sts. You should now have 48 sts. per round. Knit in pattern for 10 rounds.
Round 14: Inc 1 stitch in every k section. You should now have 56 sts. per round. Knit in pattern for 15 rounds.*
Round 29: Dec 1 stitch in every k section. Knit 4 rounds and dec again. You should be back to your original 40 stitches. Knit 4 rounds and dec again.
If pumpkin is not to be felted, bind off. Use yarn tail to thread through and cinch opening. Set aside. Using dpns, cast on 9 stitches and make I-cord stem for pumpkin. Bind off when stem is the length you desire. When weaving in the end, try to make the edge look like a diagonal “cut”. Sew pumpkin stem over small opening in pumpkin, leaving a 12” tail. This tail should then be drawn taut and sewn to the bottom edge of the pumpkin, creating the somewhat squashed shape of the pumpkin. Fill pumpkin with crumpled plastic grocery bags. Take the tail left from casting on and sew around large opening, pulling it tight to close opening. You may want to wrap yarn around seams between the pumpkin sections and tie it off at the bottom to give your pumpkin more shape.
The pumpkin to be felted should be knit closed as much as possible, as you will not be able to tighten it after felting. To this end, keep decreasing one stitch every 4 rows until opening is quite narrow. You may have to switch to dpns to accomplish this. Keep the opening large enough, however, that you can get your hand inside it to attach the stem. Bind off. The pumpkin should appear long and narrow.
Follow instruction listed above for making and attaching pumpkin stem. Felt pumpkin. As pumpkin is drying, put a plastic grocery bag inside it and fill with crumpled newspaper so that it will hold the desired shape. Use thick yarn or twine to wrap pumpkin seams while it is drying to make them more pronounced. When pumpkin is thoroughly dry, cut twine, remove bag full of newspaper and stuff with grocery bags.
*For felted pumpkin, knit this section for 20 rounds, as felting will shrink your pumpkin more lengthwise than through the width.
Copyright 2008 by Anne Mancine
Mm-m-malabrigo Mitts
I recommend Malabrigo Worsted for this project for more than just the obvious reasons. Of course, it is a joy to work with, and the finished product is incredibly soft and very warm. But I also love the subtle shade changes in the kettle-dyed worsted, and think this pattern really highlights those changes.
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And because I can’t bear to get rid of the least amount of Malabrigo, I always have little balls and skeins of it in a multitude of colors. I have used these odds and ends to create a contrasting edge to each pair of mitts. Use the same color for both, or give each mitt a different-colored edge. A little secret, if you will, that only the wearer knows after tucking it into a coat sleeve.
Yarn: 1 skein Malabrigo Kettle-Dyed Pure Merino Worsted Wool (216 yards)
enough contrasting yarn to cast on both mitts (2 or 3 yards)
Needles: set of 5 size 7 US (4.5 mm) dpns
Notions: waste yarn or small stitch holder, stitch markers, tapestry needle
Sizes: medium (large) (large should fit average-size man’s hand)
Note: Throughout this pattern, for m1, I have used the backwards loop cast-on. I find it to be a quick, simple increase, but you may certainly use the increase of your choice.
Diagonal Check Pattern
Round 1: *k4, p1, rep from *
Round 2: *k3, p2, rep from *
Round 3: *k2, p3, rep from *
Round 4: *k1, p4, rep from *
Round 5: *p4, k1, rep from *
Round 6: *p3, k2, rep from *
Round 7: *p2, k3, rep from *
Round 8: *p1, k4, rep from *
With contrasting yarn, CO 37 (41) stitches using long tail cast on method, distributing evenly over 4 needles. Join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Slip the last stitch from needle #4 to needle #1, and knit these two stitches together with main yarn color to begin first round of k1, p1 ribbing. 36 (40) stitches. Knit 20 rounds of 1 x 1 ribbing in main color. (Contrasting color is used for cast-on only.)
Begin Diagonal Check Pattern. For medium mitt only, k1, k2tog, k2, p1, then continue with k4, p1 for remainder of round. (This is done one time only, and will decrease number of stitches from 36 to 35.) Complete one 8-round repeat of pattern.
Thumb gusset will begin with Round 1 of second repeat of pattern. On Round 1,
k1, pm, m1, pm, k3, p1, then continue with k4, p1 for remainder of round. On Round 2, k1, sm, m1, k1, m1, sm, k2, p2, then continue with k3, p2 for remainder of round. Knit next two rounds in pattern, knitting stitches between stitch markers. Continue in this manner, increasing every third round, until there are 11 (13) stitches between stitch markers. The increase rounds are 2, 5, 8, 3, 6 and (1). Knit two more rounds in pattern, again knitting all stitches between stitch markers. On next round, k1, then slip 11 (13) stitches of thumb gusset onto scrap yarn or stitch marker. Continue in pattern, being sure to pull yarn tightly over thumbhole.
Knit a total of 5 repeats of 8-round pattern, then knit rounds 1 - 4. Bind off loosely purlwise. Weave in ends at top and bottom.
To complete thumb, place 11(13) thumb stitches on two dpns. Join yarn and knit these stitches, then pick up and knit 5 stitches on third dpn. On next round, knit 11 (13) stitches, ssk, k1, k2tog. 14 (16) stitches. Knit 5 (7) rounds, re-distributing the stitches over three needles, if need be. Bind off loosely purlwise. If you have difficulty binding off loosely enough, try going up one or two needle sizes. Weave in loose ends, using yarn to fill in any gaps at thumb base.
Repeat for second mitt. Although I don’t normally block mitts – well, I never do – I do recommend wet-blocking these to get rid of the bumps. If you like the bumps, don’t bother with the blocking.
.JPG)
Copyright 2010 by Anne Mancine
.JPG)
And because I can’t bear to get rid of the least amount of Malabrigo, I always have little balls and skeins of it in a multitude of colors. I have used these odds and ends to create a contrasting edge to each pair of mitts. Use the same color for both, or give each mitt a different-colored edge. A little secret, if you will, that only the wearer knows after tucking it into a coat sleeve.
Yarn: 1 skein Malabrigo Kettle-Dyed Pure Merino Worsted Wool (216 yards)
enough contrasting yarn to cast on both mitts (2 or 3 yards)
Needles: set of 5 size 7 US (4.5 mm) dpns
Notions: waste yarn or small stitch holder, stitch markers, tapestry needle
Sizes: medium (large) (large should fit average-size man’s hand)
Note: Throughout this pattern, for m1, I have used the backwards loop cast-on. I find it to be a quick, simple increase, but you may certainly use the increase of your choice.
Diagonal Check Pattern
Round 1: *k4, p1, rep from *
Round 2: *k3, p2, rep from *
Round 3: *k2, p3, rep from *
Round 4: *k1, p4, rep from *
Round 5: *p4, k1, rep from *
Round 6: *p3, k2, rep from *
Round 7: *p2, k3, rep from *
Round 8: *p1, k4, rep from *
With contrasting yarn, CO 37 (41) stitches using long tail cast on method, distributing evenly over 4 needles. Join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Slip the last stitch from needle #4 to needle #1, and knit these two stitches together with main yarn color to begin first round of k1, p1 ribbing. 36 (40) stitches. Knit 20 rounds of 1 x 1 ribbing in main color. (Contrasting color is used for cast-on only.)
Begin Diagonal Check Pattern. For medium mitt only, k1, k2tog, k2, p1, then continue with k4, p1 for remainder of round. (This is done one time only, and will decrease number of stitches from 36 to 35.) Complete one 8-round repeat of pattern.
Thumb gusset will begin with Round 1 of second repeat of pattern. On Round 1,
k1, pm, m1, pm, k3, p1, then continue with k4, p1 for remainder of round. On Round 2, k1, sm, m1, k1, m1, sm, k2, p2, then continue with k3, p2 for remainder of round. Knit next two rounds in pattern, knitting stitches between stitch markers. Continue in this manner, increasing every third round, until there are 11 (13) stitches between stitch markers. The increase rounds are 2, 5, 8, 3, 6 and (1). Knit two more rounds in pattern, again knitting all stitches between stitch markers. On next round, k1, then slip 11 (13) stitches of thumb gusset onto scrap yarn or stitch marker. Continue in pattern, being sure to pull yarn tightly over thumbhole.
Knit a total of 5 repeats of 8-round pattern, then knit rounds 1 - 4. Bind off loosely purlwise. Weave in ends at top and bottom.
To complete thumb, place 11(13) thumb stitches on two dpns. Join yarn and knit these stitches, then pick up and knit 5 stitches on third dpn. On next round, knit 11 (13) stitches, ssk, k1, k2tog. 14 (16) stitches. Knit 5 (7) rounds, re-distributing the stitches over three needles, if need be. Bind off loosely purlwise. If you have difficulty binding off loosely enough, try going up one or two needle sizes. Weave in loose ends, using yarn to fill in any gaps at thumb base.
Repeat for second mitt. Although I don’t normally block mitts – well, I never do – I do recommend wet-blocking these to get rid of the bumps. If you like the bumps, don’t bother with the blocking.
.JPG)
Copyright 2010 by Anne Mancine
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